As you can probably tell, I love bread. I think I’ve probably always loved bread, but it wasn’t until I started baking it myself that I really became passionate about it.
For me the whole process of baking bread is quite therapeutic in a meditative way. When I really take the time to make dough by hand, kneading it from sticky mass through to smooth, beautiful dough, I feel such a part of the whole process, and the resulting loaf becomes such a joyous thing. The process focuses my attention. Beside yoga it’s my ultimate mindful activity.
Some of the first times that I made bread was when I was at sea. A crew mate and friend had worked on a tall ship on which baking bread was part of their watch duties so that every morning they would have fresh loaves to serve with breakfast. She is an excellent baker, and knows the process so well that she can create beautiful bread intuitively without measuring anything.
When she was teaching me the process our ship, the Picton Castle, had a magnificent old cast iron stove from the 1800’s. There were no set temperatures, and the heat of it depended on the wind (you’d also sometimes end up with slanty cakes if you were baking while the ship was listing to one side). It was the most magical experience to be gliding across the North Atlantic under the infinite stars of night watch, in the warmth of the galley making bread in that old stove. Maybe it’s from those enduring memories that the bread love was born.
A while ago I made this twisty pesto bread that was absolutely beautiful. The bread part of it was brioche which is an enriched dough with an entire pack of butter kneaded into it, not really in line with the ideology of healthful choices that I’m striving for here though. So I decided to make a loaf in the spirit of the white-flour-butter-laden version using healthier ingredients but still loaded with flavour and twistyness. The results exceeded my expectations.
I made the dough with half whole wheat and half whole spelt flour. After the initial rising I squashed the dough out into a rectangle spread it with kale pesto and sprinkled over a bit of feta and rolled it all up (like you would for making cinnamon buns). The fun part is when you take your roll and split it down the middle lengthwise, and then twist the two halves together so that the pesto layers show on the top. Squash your twist and put it in a tin adjusting it until you’re happy with the look, and then into the oven. It’s quite easy, looks really pretty and is delicious. An especially rewarding way to practice an already rewarding craft.
- 250g whole spelt flour
- 250g whole wheat flour
- 20g coconut oil, melted (plus a little for greasing)
- 10g instant yeast
- 1/2Tbsp salt
- 300mL water, room temperature
- 90g pesto
- 50g feta
- Weigh the flours into a large bowl, or the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add the yeast to one side of the bowl and the salt to the other. Be sure not to allow them to touch at this point as the salt will kill the yeast if they come into direct contact.
- Add the oil and 3/4 of the water and then turn the dough around with your fingers until it forms a rough dough, adding enough water to form a soft dough (add more water if needed)OR if using a mixer, turn on to low for a minute or two to achieve the same result.
- Turn the dough out onto a lightly oiled surface and knead it well for at least 5-10 minutes. When the dough is ready it will be smooth and a bit elastic. OR if using a mixer, turn it up to the second speed for about 5-8 minutes until the gluten is developed.
- Place the dough into a lightly oiled bowl and cover tightly with cling film and set it aside at room temperature to rise until doubled in size, 2-3 hours.
- Prepare a 2lb loaf tin by oiling it lightly.
- Once the dough is risen tip it out onto a lightly floured surface and knock all of the air out. Flatten the dough onto the surface to form a large rectangle about 35 x 45cm.
- Spread the pesto evenly over the dough, and crumble the feta over the top.
- With the short side facing you, roll the dough up away from you so you end up with a roll about 35cm long. Pinch the seam closed along the bottom if necessary.
- With a dough scraper or sharp knife split the roll of dough down the centre lengthwise leaving about 1” still attached at one end.
- Starting where the dough is still attached cross the two halves over and over one another along the length, arranging it so that the pesto layers are exposed at the top. Pinch the ends together and tuck them under. Squash your twist gently to a size that will fit into the tin and then carefully lift it into the tin arranging the shape to one you’re pleased with.
- Place the tin in a large plastic bag ballooned over your loaf so that it won’t touch it as it rises. Leave it for the second prove for 45min to an hour until the loaf is risen and springs back when you poke it gently.
- Pre-heat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius.
- Once the loaf is proved remove it from its bag and place it on the middle shelf of the oven. Leave it to bake until it’s quite dark golden on top and it will keep its form as you slide it out of the tin (about 25-35 min). Remove it from the tin and set it back in the oven directly on the oven rack for 5-10 more minutes, until it has a crispy crust where it’s been in the tin and sounds hollow when you tap the bottom. Leave it to cool on a wire rack.
- A lovely place to try different types of pesto. I've used kale pesto here, but you could be really creative with the filling!